From buzzing kitchen to downtime bedroom, you can use the neutrals in just-launched \nLick x Kelly Hoppen neutral paint collection\n anywhere and everywhere safe in the knowledge they’ll work every time. As \nKelly Hoppen\n put it: “you just can’t  go wrong with neutrals.” \n\nEffortless as they are, our resident colour experts have picked out a few suggested palettes per room for you to stick with or twist, however, you, fancy…\nA guide to neutrals: textures and layering\nWhen we say neutral hues like those in \nKelly Hoppen’s neutral paint collection\n work wonders anywhere, we don’t just mean from room to room. Ceilings, walls, skirting boards, doors, architraves – they translate to every surface too. Kelly Hoppen herself is a great fan of painting walls and skirting in the same tone so that the wall almost bleeds into the floor, continuing the flow of colour. That’s one way to layer – across surfaces. \n\nNot only that, apply more than a few \npaint colours\n in the same room, in any proportion to give rise to a neutral colour palette that will feel harmonious and considered. And if you’re really feeling the neutrals, work with all six shades in the\n collection \nand spread them throughout your home so you have a head-to-toe neutral colour palette. That’s layering part two – overlapping colours to build a scheme.

But layering also involves building different levels of texture and depth in your room, something that these neutrals will inspire you to do to no end. They create a calming backdrop against more dominant furnishings and tactile finishes. Layer your neutral paint colours with:\nNatural linen upholstery\nRattan furniture (hello cane headboard or vintage bar trolley)\nVelvets in muted hues\nJute rugs (or sisal or seagrass for that matter)\nBouclé weave accent seating\nHoned or polished marble countertops in the kitchen\nPlenty of natural woods to boot from oak to unbleached pine and walnut\n

Now let's put layering into practice. Here are a few ideas for how to style the \nLick x Kelly Hoppen Neutrals\n in your home...\nHow to style neutral paint colours in a kitchen\nThe kitchen, where \nGrey 09\n or \nGrey 10\n will provide a breath of fresh air. Set against \nTaupe 01\n walls, a white marble work surface and plenty of greenery, your kitchen will feel clean, crisp and balanced. Even when you’re in there cooking for ten or throwing together a rushed breakfast, a sense of steadiness will always be there to fall back on.

How to style neutral paint colours in a dining room\nFor a relaxed yet sophisticated dining space (be it a dining room or breakfast nook), opt for \nGrey 11\n. Add texture with velvet chairs in muted warm hues and demarcate the dining area using a rug under your table.

How to style neutral paint colours in a hallway\nTry \nGrey 09\n on your walls and \nTaupe 01\n on any woodwork to create a powerful, sophisticated entrance that’ll set the tone for the rest of your home. When you hit the stairs, you could strip the carpet and paint those in \nGrey 10\n and then overlay a sisal flat weave or jute runner with \nBeige 04\n on the stairwell walls (\nread more tips on painting with beige here\n).

How to style neutral paint colours in a bedroom\nA dream neutral bedroom colour scheme would be comforting \nBeige 04 \non the walls and then just a slight difference with \nBeige 05\n woodwork. By going just a hint darker, it’ll add an understated elegant twist. Picture this with a rattan headboard and throw pillows in a textured weave and you might just never get out of bed.

How to style neutral paint colours in a guest bedroom\nWe love the idea of a single cocooning tone throughout a guest bedroom, like \nGrey 11\n. With its soothing notes across walls, woodwork and even the ceiling complete with rumpled white linen bed sheets, any visitors checking in will feel like they’re sleeping amongst the clouds.

How to style neutral paint colours in a study\nWorking from home asks for a calming home environment and colours like \nTaupe 01\n (for the walls) and \nBeige 04\n (for any woodwork) will give you just that. Team with plenty of plants to boost brainpower, a chrome desk for something more modern or oak for the heritage look and a tan leather chair.

How to style neutral paint colours in a living room\nComing home to a neutral living room day after day will help to melt any tension. It’s the most elegant, relaxing room to retreat to whether you’re entertaining or unwinding solo. Either \nGrey 09\n or \nGrey 10\n across walls and woodwork is a strong choice, paired with a bouclé sofa, architectural marble coffee table (site the centrepiece), rattan armchairs and a piece of large-scale contemporary artwork.

Confident? Tick. Calm? You soon will be as soon as you dip paintbrush into any \nLick x Kelly Hoppen\n paint tin. And if you need further advice on building your palette, why not \nbook a video consultation\n with one of our colour specialists?


Want to give your space a fresh look without much investment? \nUpcycling your furniture\n is one of the most affordable and effective ways to do just. Not only can it save you the expense of having to get new furniture, you’ll have a refreshed piece that’s totally unique. \nAnd\n it’s great for the environment.\n\nNot a DIY expert? No worries, once you’ve revived one piece, you’ll quickly realise that you don’t need to be a pro to upcycle with impact. \n\nWe’re lucky to have so many creative members who inspire us in our very own Lick community. \n@anotherfknflat\n from our community even gave us a full breakdown of the steps they took to do an IKEA Malm bedside table hack. Learn more about the steps they took to upcycle their bedside table and get inspired by this IKEA malm hack.\nWhat you’ll need to upcycle your bedside table \nFirst, get all your tools ready: \n\nLick paint\n\nIKEA Malm unit or any bedside table\nx4 Stripwood (28mm x 4mm x 2.4m) (you can get this from \nWickes\n) \nWhite multi-surface primer\nSandpaper or \nsanding block\n\nWood glue\nWood dye (optional)\n

IKEA Malm hack: DIY steps \nFollow the DIY steps that \n@anotherfknflat\n took: \nStart with sanding. \nRemove drawers and lightly sand down the surfaces/drawer edges using light sandpaper. \nGet rid of any dust. \nWipe down with a dry cloth to remove any dust from the sandpaper.\nPrepare with primer. \nUsing a white multi-surface primer, paint the whole unit on the sections which will be visible. You can paint the inside as well if you wish, but it’s not necessary. \nWait for the primer to dry. \nCheck primer to see how long the drying process is (we waited 2 hours before applying paint). \nStart getting that colour on. \nUsing your \nLick paint colour\n of choice and a small paint roller, paint your first coat all over the entire unit. \nLet it dry before the second coat. \nWait until dry and then apply another coat of paint. \nMeasure and cut the stripwood. \nStarting with the drawer fronts, measure the width and cut down x2 stripwood into the given length. Keep in mind that the drawer front is a different size to the top of the unit. \nOptional step:\n you can either keep the wood as is or dye the wood to a different tone. If you do choose to dye the wood, dab a cloth with the dye each time, rub it into the wood and leave to dry (we gave them two coats). \nStick the wood panels on. \nUsing wood glue, draw a line across the back of each wood panel and place into position. Hold into place with a bit of force for around 20 seconds to make sure they’re firmly attached. \nRepeat the last 3 steps for the top of the unit. \nAnd et voila, you’ve got your very own upcycled Ikea Malm unit. \nYou can use these same steps for any size unit and any size stripwood. Just keep in mind how much stripwood you may need and make sure the stripwood isn't too big/heavy for the wood glue to hold without using nails.

Not quite ready to end your upcycling journey? Check out our blog posts on \nhow to upcycle your chest of drawers using Lick paint\n and \nhow to upcycle bathroom cabinets with leftover paint\n\n\nFeeling creative? Read our tips of \nwhat to do with leftover paint\n.

Spring is all about new life, new beginnings, and colours. One of the most popular interior colour trends of the year is pastels. The good news is that you can bring your favourite pastel \nspring colours\n into your homes.\n\nDiscover how to use pastel colours in your home to bring a burst of spring all year round.\n\nRising spring interior trend: pastels \n\nWhat makes pastels so popular in the world of interior design? According to our Lead Colour Specialist, Tash, “Pastels are great communicating colours”. They create a feeling of calm and happiness in your home as they don’t have any black pigment in them. Pastel colours are light, fresh and airy, with white and neutral undertones for simple zen.\nWhy you should use pastel colours in your home \n\nAs Tash says, pastels are relaxing and inviting: “Pastels are a lovely way for someone to bring in some colour into your home as they are soft and don't demand a lot from you”. \n\nAt Lick, all our pastel pinks and light colours are designed to bring softness and happiness to a room. And you don’t have to pick a favourite—you can use all of the pastels from our \nNeo Deco pastels collection\n as they all harmonise with one another. Wander from a dusty pink to a soft mint green to a sky blue room; the colours from this room work very nicely together as they’re all yellow-based.\nHow to use pastel paint colours in your home\n\n\nPastel pink paint\n\nCreate the ultimate spot to lounge in with our favourite nurturing colour -  pastel pink. Deck your living room or bedroom walls in the super-soft \nPink 01\n or the muted bubblegum \nPink 03\n and it’ll be like watching your fave shows while wrapped in a warm hug. 

Pastel blue paint\n\nKnown for their soothing and de-stressing qualities, soft shades of blue make the perfect choice for your bedroom and bathroom. Take your pick from the \nsky blue paint Blue 08\n, the mint green \nBlue 09,\n the fresh clean minty \nBlue 02\n or the light \nBlue 03\n with green undertones for added zen factor.

Pastel green paint\n \nBring the outdoors in with the colour of nature - green. Add the relaxing energy of green with paint colours such as the uplifting \nGreen 09\n or the fresh neo \nGreen 08\n. These would look great in any room, but we love a pale green for kitchens.

Pastel yellow paint\n\nWho said pastels have to be soft and subtle? Add a burst of bright pastel with an energetic yellow. The soft creamy \nYellow 01\n or the warm \nYellow 02\n could add a lovely, playful vibe in your hallway.

Explore our new range of trendy pastel colours from the \nLick x Living etc. \n\nNew Deco pastel paint collection\n and learn more about \nhow to style these new pastel paint colours in your home\n.\n\n 


Annem is 31 years old and works for PlayStation, but also runs her own cheese business – hence her memorable Instagram username - \n@ahousebuiltoncheese\n.\n \nShe lives in North London with her husband Mike and they own a 1930s semi-detached, which required a lot of love and renovation when they bought it back in 2019. Sadly, in January 2020, a huge water pipe burst meaning they couldn’t move in until all the damage had been repaired. This meant they were only able to officially move in last September, but we are so glad they are finally settled and able to begin enjoying their home renovation journey.\n \nAnnem has chosen to share the recent makeover of their home office, which has become a busy hub of activity as they now both work from home. It was important to create a space that allowed them both to comfortably work alongside one another, as well as create a large storage space for all their books and files.

Before the IKEA Billy bookcase hack\nAnnem described this room as bland, confused and small – telling us that the previous owners had placed big, bulky items in this space and it really didn’t do the room justice. They were ready to give it a brand-new look, and ensure that the design suited their new-found WFH needs.

Planning & inspiration\n“Since buying the house, we knew that we wanted a wall in the office to be made entirely of bookshelves. We scaled Pinterest and found a lot of built-in bookshelves painted the same colour as the walls, and knew we wanted to recreate the look. In terms of colour, our old flat had a rusty red piece of space-themed artwork, so we may have subconsciously fallen for this colour because of that!\n \nWe chose \nRed 01\n, as it’s a gorgeous rusty red with chocolatey notes! I couldn’t think of a better room to get snug and read a book in”.

“We chose Red 01, as it’s a gorgeous rusty red with chocolatey notes! I couldn’t think of a better room to get snug and read a book in.”

"We wanted the office space to be cosy and warm. Many hours are spent in here so we wanted to move away from the look and feel of a corporate office space as much as possible. Natural textures, plants, throws, artwork, family photos, soft lighting etc.”.

How to: IKEA Billy bookcase hack\n\nMake sure the wall you’re putting the bookshelf again has the skirting removed. This is so it’s flush with the wall. If you can do this carefully, you can re-use it later.
\nGive the Ikea furniture a super light sand and a wipe, and then apply two generous coats of Zinsser Bin Shellac Primer, letting it dry between both coats (read our guide on \nhow to prime and paint wooden furniture and other surfaces\n).
\nOnce primed, leave them to dry for a few hours, or even the next day, so you can get painting. Use a roller to get a nice smooth finish. Apply 2 coats of paint, ensuring you let it dry between both coats. You can also use a spray gun to do this part, so if you’ve been thinking about buying one – now might be a good time to invest!
\n‘Curing’ time. Make sure you give avoid assembling for a week to ensure the paint has enough time to fully dry and adhere.
\nAssemble, push against the wall and figure out where you’re putting it.
\nIf you realise you have seriously wonky floors, then on the bottom of each bookshelf, attach kitchen cabinet legs. These can be adjusted/turned to get the height you want. (Full disclosure: Annem and Mike did all the assembly themselves but asked a local joiner to assist them with this so they didn’t get it wrong). Now that they've seen how it’s done, however, they reckon they could do it again themselves! It really depends on your level of DIY skills.
\nUsing a laser guide, adjust the kitchen legs until the height is level all the way across.
\nCut out some MDF to fill the gap on the front base of the bookshelves. If you have gaps either side you can also use MDF to hide it. Apply the MDF using some glue and if you want, nails. At this stage, you should also secure the bookshelves to the wall. Ikea give you the brackets to do this at the back.  You should also drill the bookshelves together so they are flush and neat.
\nOver the MDF, apply the skirting board making sure it’s straight and level. If there is a gap at the bottom, don’t worry – you can caulk it and then paint over so it’s barely noticeable.
\nAnnem and Mike purchased some decorative moulding from Wickes which they cut and placed at the point where the Billy bookshelves meet. This gave it a lovely built-in, custom look!
\nCaulk the moulding and skirting boards, as well as filling any holes from where you drilled in. Once dry, paint the skirting and the moulding, as well as any touch ups if you’ve chipped anywhere!
\nGive it a day to completely dry out, and then start styling your bookshelves!\n

Establishing the IKEA Billy bookcase budget\n“The inspiration images we found for the bookshelves appeared to be custom made and built-in; but after enquiring about costs; many carpenters quoted us no less that £1800-£2000. Woodwork is an art form, so I appreciate trades being paid for their craft but unfortunately when you’re renovating a rundown house from the ground up, you have to compromise and prioritise your budget. Instead, we found and purchased some ‘Billy’ bookshelves from IKEA; which set us back about £300”.\n\nAnnem spent between £500-£600; which included the bookshelves, as well as the necessary tools and products. This kind of project can differ in costs depending on the number of bookcases you go for, teamed with the type of finish you desire.\n\nThis project cost them a quarter of the fee quoted by joiners, and we think they did an incredible job of building their very own dream bookshelves!

Annem’s experience with Lick\n\n“The Lick paint went on beautifully in this room. It was thick, had great coverage and has so far been pretty durable! In terms of choosing the colour, our advice would be to really try to think about how you want to ‘feel’ in a room. Warm, cosy, productive, energised? Everyone’s idea of what these words mean, may differ; so, focus on the environment you want to create and then maybe shortlist 5 colours you feel do that for you. The Lick team have also been super communicative with their customer services, so if you’re really struggling to make sense of your shortlisted colours, you can seek advice.

“In terms of choosing the colour, our advice would be to really try to think about how you want to ‘feel’ in a room. Warm, cosy, productive, energised? Focus on the environment you want to create.”

Seeing \nRed 01\n go on for the first time in this room was my favourite part of the whole project. I’ve never lived in a house with a colour this rich. It was one of the first rooms we painted and I thought I might cry. It was so beautiful!”

Annem’s DIY advice & tips\n \nThere are some tasks during big renovations that you have to call in the experts for. When they’re in your house don’t be afraid to ask them a million questions and get advice, like I do. You never know what you’ll learn, and it’s a good way to gauge whether you can try your hand at it yourself again, in the future\nSpecifically, when transforming furniture, be prepared for how much time it can take between priming, sanding, filling and painting. It’s not a quick job. It requires patience, but it’s super-duper satisfying when you see the final result\nI don’t always love the DIY process, but it can be extremely rewarding when you’ve worked so hard to achieve the look you wanted. I would encourage everyone to give it a go at least once!\nFeeling inspired to do some DIY? Check out this \nIKEA malm hack\n and get upcycling!

Ever dealt with the frustrating decor experience of paint bleeding out onto ceilings or other edges, ruining all your careful application efforts? \nSharp lines are one of the key elements of a flawless wall finish, but it’s all too easy for paint to bleed through onto ceilings and adjacent walls. Whether you’re painting your first wall or your twentieth (well done, you pro), learn how to create crisp lines before kicking off your next decorating project. \nFollow the steps below to avoid paint bleeding.\nWhat you’ll need\n
Before you get going, there's a few things you'll need.\nMasking tape (yep, this trusty tool will be your best friend in the process - read more about \npainters masking tape\n)\n\nPaint \n\nBrushes \nA steady hand

(Tip: Though we can't help to steady your hands, both our paints and our painting tools have been developed with ease in mind. So although we're a touch biased, we'd recommend our own products for the best results.)\n

How to do it\n
Step 1: Reach for that masking tape \n Once you’ve suitably \nprepped your walls for painting\n start by applying masking tape over any spots you want to protect, along the edges of the ceiling and where the skirting board meets the wall (discover \nhow to paint skirting boards here\n).\nStep 2: Paint over the edges \nThe secret to crisp, clean lines: paint over the edge of your masking tape with the existing colour of the wall (or whatever surface you’re painting). By brushing over the edge of the tape, you’re effectively sealing the paint, and any paint that bleeds through will match the existing colour. \nAllow this coat of paint to dry. Read our \nhow to paint a wall\n guide for some top painting tips.\nStep 3: Paint your second coat in the desired new colour \n When the first layer of paint is dry, start painting your second (new) colour. Using your paintbrush, make sure that the paint overlaps the tape line. \nStep 4: Remove and reveal \nWhile your freshly-painted coat is still wet, it’s time for the big reveal. Carefully remove tape by pulling it towards you at a 90-degree angle. \nIf you’ve followed all the steps above, you should be faced with a sharp, clean line with zero bleed-through. \n--\nUse this technique on edges, corners or where the wall meets the ceiling. Once you’ve mastered how to paint clean lines… you’re pretty far along on your decorating journey. 

Work on pretty much any home design project and you’ll come across this reliable and multi-purpose tool - \npainters masking tape\n. \nIf you want to learn \nhow to paint a wall\n perfectly, masking tape will be your best friend. This trusty tool plays a big part in helping to achieve clean and shape lines when painting and saves skirting boards and adjacent surfaces from paint splatters and splodges. More on that below.

(Check out \nhow to paint skirting boards here\n)\nWhat to use \n
Start by choosing the right tape. There are lots of different masking tape options out there, so make sure you buy tape that’s appropriate for your home renovation needs. You can get painters masking tape that specifically works well with wood, metal or wallpaper. Or, you could just invest in a good old-fashioned multi-purpose masking tape that sticks to all surfaces.

How to use painters masking tape\n
Make use of masking tape to paint like a pro: \nStart by wiping down the areas you want to tape. Dip a sponge into a warm water and mild detergent mixture and use that to get rid of dirt and grime from surfaces before tape application. Leave to dry completely before reaching for that tape.\n(Warning: Skip the above step and your tape will stick to dust particles instead of surfaces. Make sure you check out \nhow to prep walls for painting\n).\nOnce you’ve got a clean and dry surface to work with, start to apply masking tape in foot-long strips. As you’re applying each section, make sure that it overlaps a little with the previous section so paint can’t seep through any cracks.  \nTry to peel off the masking tape as soon as you can. Ensure that you don't leave the masking tape overnight. Peeling off the masking tape when the paint is still wet minimises the chance of it peeling off any existing paint in the process.\n\nWhere to use painters masking tape\n
Affix your tape around areas you want to protect and edges where you want to achieve clean, sharp lines: \nIf you’re painting your walls, tape the edges of the ceiling (right where the ceiling and wall meet), skirting boards, window frames and door frames, light switches and sockets. \nIf you’re painting a ceiling, mask sections of the adjoining walls using masking tape. \nWhen applying tape, apply it as close as possible to the surface you’re going to paint. \nSeal tape to the surface, pressing down to make sure it’s properly stuck on. Firm application will ensure the tape bonds to the surface and prevent paint from bleeding and the tape from peeling. \nRemember to leave enough tape at the end of each strip to overlap the edges of the next section, or you risk exposing small cracks in the middle. \nMasking tape can also help you protect your floors when painting. Cover up your flooring with a drop cloth and use your trusty tape to secure it in place. Not only that, masking tape can also help you create wall art - use it as a stencil and get creative with your shapes!

How to remove painters masking tape\n
Remove masking tape as soon as you’re finished painting. Don’t wait for the paint to dry as you’ll risk peeling it off along with the tape. \nPeel the tape off carefully, pulling it slowly but firmly toward yourself. \nIf any paint has already dried to the tape, score the area using a sharp utility knife. Careful not to cut the wall. \nLeft with sticky paint residue? Don’t fret - remove easily using soapy water.

One of the best things about wallpaper? It doesn’t have to be there forever (unless you want it to, of course). Whether you’re sick of the sight of your current wallpaper or just fancy a bit of a change, it’s easy to remove wallpaper and get something new up \nall\n \nby yourself\n. \nChoose from the three main wallpaper removal methods depending on the type of paper you have up and just how stubbornly attached it is. You could get to work with a trusty stripping knife, or you could simply peel it off (if it’s peel-able, that is). \nOne of the most popular methods? Remove it with a wallpaper steamer. A wallpaper steamer works by using hot water to soften the wallpaper adhesive/ paste between the wallpaper and the wall. It’s quick, it’s effective and, let’s face it, it’s kinda fun. \nIntrigued? Here’s how to remove wallpaper with a steamer:

Don't forget to prep\n
Gather your goods and get your working space ready for steaming.\nBut first: \nTake all your pictures and hangings off the walls. \nProtect your furnishings and knick-knacks by removing them from the room. If any furniture pieces are too heavy to lug around, cover them up with dust sheets and move to the centre of the room. \nSave your flooring (and yourselves from a time-consuming clean) by covering it up with drop sheets. \nSafety first - put on protective gloves and glasses before starting. \nPut your wallpaper steamer on and allow it to heat up for at least 10 minutes. 

(Tip: Rent a steamer instead of going all out and buying one. Unless you’re planning frequent wallpaper removal, that is.)\n

How to use a wallpaper removal steamer: wallpaper steaming process \n
Ready to steam it all off? Here’s how: \nStep 1 \nStarting from the bottom of the wall, hold the steamer’s plate against the wallpaper. Wait for a minute or until you start to see signs of dampness on the paper \nStep 2 \nGently start to scrape the wallpaper away from the wall using a wide scraper. Work with extra care as the plaster surface behind can be fragile and easily damaged. \nStep 3\nStart to move the wallpaper steamer in an upward direction, softening sections and carefully removing them with your scraper as you go. \nStep 4 \nWork on one wallpaper strip at a time, always steaming from bottom to top. Once you’ve removed all the strips and scraps are off, dispose of them in an eco-friendly way. \n(Tip: Consult your wallpaper steamer’s manual for any specific instructions, as they may vary by machine.) \n
What to watch out for\n
Be mindful to not refill your steamer with fresh water when it’s on; it's best to unplug it for a minute or two before topping up the water tank to avoid any mess.\nThen if any drywall comes off along with your wallpaper, stop immediately. This could be a result of the drywall not being properly sealed with paint. Rectify the issue with glue, filler and sealer before steaming on. \n--\nAll off? You now have a blank canvas for your brand-new Lick wallpaper... discover \nwhere to start when hanging wallpaper with our top tips on how to wallpaper a wall\n, and \nhow to prepare walls for wallpaper\n.\n\n\nShop contemporary wallpaper\n

If you’ve got a decor dilemma, we listen. And one setback novice painters can sometimes face is something known as ‘picture framing’. No, we’re not talking Picasso pondering how to present his latest masterpiece. We mean you guys, at home, taking a step back to admire your freshly painted walls and wondering, “why does it look like \nthat\n?”.\nWhat causes picture framing? \nPicture framing occurs at the ‘cutting in’ step of painting your room, when a wall is painted with a roller but is brushed at the edges. Occasionally, the brushed areas appear darker, resembling the frame of a picture. To avoid this, take a look at our advice on \nhow to cut in when painting.\n But more importantly: don’t panic.\n\nPicture framing can be quite common with high quality, high pigment paints (especially darker colours) and is usually down to a difference in paint applied when using a brush versus a roller. It can also be due to the different layering of angles, causing different lighting and miniature shadows (which doesn’t show with lighter colours). Make sure you’re up to scratch on \nhow to use different decorating tools \n(because we all know there’s \nnothing\n worse than a workman blaming their tools).

How to prevent picture framing\n\nLet’s talk about how to avoid it. Our team of expert decorators recommends:\nBrushing the final coat all over the wall to even out the film thickness or cut in smaller areas with the brush.\nMake sure you follow rollering while the brushed areas are still wet to allow the paint to blend. Essentially, maintaining a ‘wet edge’ at all times.\nTaking your roller as close to the cut in corners as you can while painting the wall—always whilst the paint remains wet. \nIf you like, you can change your roller sleeve to a shorter pile.\nHow to fix picture framing\n\nAnd, in the event the worst happens, fear not. It’s totally fixable. If your wall looks like it’s succumbed to the picture framing problem, then perseverance is key. Keep going, trying to match the overlapping sections as closely as possible by applying additional coats of paint to the cut in areas.\n\nAs always, the best route to success is with proper prep, so before you begin, check out our guide on \nhow to prep a room for painting.\n Now all you need is the \npaint\n!

If you want to become a \ntrue\n wallpapering maestro, start by learning how to prepare a room for wallpaper like an expert. Check out our \nwallpapering for beginners guide\n to know what mistakes to look out for and how to fix then. Or master the prep steps and you’re halfway there on your journey to a smooth and professionally papered finish. As tempting as it may be to dive right into the actual application, trust us, the little extra time investment will be so worth it.
\nHow to prepare walls for wallpaper: what you’ll need \n
Gather your wallpaper tools: \nDust sheets \nPaste brush \nSugar soap\nSponge, gloves and a bucket \nStripping knife\nWall filler and filling knife\nSandpaper \nProtective mask and safety glasses\n\nShop our contemporary wallpaper\n

How to prepare walls for wallpaper: how to set up \n
Got everything together? Time to get your working space ready: \nGive yourselves a little more space to work by ridding the room of as many items and as much furniture as you can. If it’s too heavy (or you just don’t have anywhere else to move it), scoot it over to the middle of the room and cover with dust sheets. \nMeasure the room and work out how much wallpaper you’ll actually need. Get a little extra (we’d recommend 10% extra) to allow for wastage. \nTime to strip off any old wallpaper and paint. For wallpaper, we’d recommend using a good old stripping knife to start with. Carefully strip off sections of wallpaper, taking care not to damage the wall behind. If you’re struggling, soften up old wallpaper with a sponge dipped in hot water for easier removal. If you’re \nreally\n struggling, invest in (or borrow) a steam wallpaper stripper and get the job done a lot more quickly (learn \nhow remove wallpaper with a steamer and how to use a wallpaper removal steamer here\n). \nWant to get rid of old, peeling paint? Get a smooth finish by sanding away any flakes or patches with a fine piece of sandpaper. \nOnce your surfaces are free of wallpaper and paint, take a closer look for any cracks in the walls. Fill in any holes or gaps with filler for an even surface. Wait for the filler to dry before sanding smooth with a piece of fine sandpaper. \nPut on a pair of rubber gloves and prepare to scrub. Clean all surfaces that are to be papered with a sugar soap and water solution. Wipe away soap traces with a damp and clean sponge and leave to dry overnight. \nWhat to consider when preparing walls for wallpaper\n
It’s worth mentioning: \nStripping your walls is messy business. Make sure your room is well-ventilated and use a protective mask if you have any suspicions about the presence of lead under the surface.\nWe know - prep work can result in quite a bit of a mess. Clear everything up before you start hanging wallpaper for a clean working space (read more on \nwhere to start with wallpapering here\n). \n--\nThere you have it - a fully prepped room that’s ready for your handywork. Take a deep breath and prepare to paper... it's time to learn \nhow to put up wallpaper and how to wallpaper a feature wall\n. Are you using \nself-adhesive wallpaper\n? Check out our t\nips on how to apply self-adhesive wallpaper\n to a wall and \neverything you need to know about self-adhesive\n.\n\n--\nAnd if you are working the other way around and want to know if \nyou can paint over wallpaper\n, then read our guide on \nhow to paint over wallpaper\n.

As they say: fail to prepare and you prepare to fail. When it comes to painting walls, this couldn’t be any truer. Learn how to prep a room for painting and you’re guaranteed a much smoother finish. Investing a little more time and care at the start is more than worth it.\nGet one step closer in your quest to paint like a pro by getting to grips with how to prepare a room for painting. Read on for our guide on how to do it and what to watch out for.

How to prep your walls for painting: what you'll need\n
First, get your tools together. You’ll need: \nSoap \nSponge, gloves, and a bucket \nStripping knife \nFiller and filling knife\nProtective sheets \nSandpaper\n\nHow to set up\nGot everything you need? Get started with the following steps: \nRemove as much of your furniture as you can. If it’s too heavy to lug too far, move it to the centre of the room and cover it up with protective sheets. \nStart by inspecting your walls carefully. Spot any holes and cracks? Clean any gaps with soap water (and rinse) before filling in carefully. Push filler in carefully using your filling knife until you’re satisfied with the evenness. Leave to dry before smoothing down with a sandpaper\nTackle any flaky plaster or peeling paint by sanding with a fine sandpaper. For the most beautiful finish, you want your paint surface to be as smooth and even as possible. \nMake sure your walls are clean and dry before paint application. Pop your gloves on and clean surfaces using soap and water. Give the walls a final wipe down with a damp sponge to get rid of any traces of soap and leave to dry (thoroughly). \n\nNewly plastered surface\nDealing with a freshly plastered wall? Apply a primer for the most vivid result. Make sure the primer is completely dry before applying any paint.\n\nPreviously wallpapered surface\nWorking on a previously wallpapered surface? Peel-able wallpaper is easy to get rid off (the hint is in the name), but wallpaper hung with paste can be slightly trickier to remove. Take it off carefully using a stripping knife, taking extra care not to damage the plaster behind.\nIf a few scraps of wallpaper are holding on for dear life, soak with a sponge and hot water to soften before stripping. Finish off by sanding lightly with a fresh piece of sandpaper.\n\nBrick wall surface\nYou can use either our Interior or Exterior paint for a brick surface. We suggest our Interior paint, as it has a faster drying time.\nYou'll need to apply a mist coat by thinning some of the paint with 70% water (i.e. 7 part water for every 3 parts paint).\nDo one coat in the mist coat and allow it to dry before painting two coats with the rest of the undiluted paint.\nThis is because masonry can be porous and therefore will soak up paint on the first application and could lead to an uneven finish and peeling if not sealed. If you would prefer to use a primer paint rather than a mist coat, we recommend using Zinsser 1-2-3 Bulls Eye Primer Sealer as a high-quality primer.\n\nTiled surface\nWhilst our paint is durable and suitable for multi-surface use, we wouldn't recommend using it for glazed tiles as they can be tricky for even multi-surface paint to adhere to. This can result in an uneven and patchy finish if the paint doesn't apply properly. Also, for floor tiles, due to the high tread they encounter, you may find the paint wears quickly.\nFor these reasons, we suggest using a specialist tile paint for your tiles!

What next?\n
Other than mentally preparing yourself for the task ahead, there's a few other things to bear in mind.\nFigure out how much paint you’ll need to buy. Start by measuring the length and height of each wall. Next, multiply both numbers to get the square footage. Take away the square footage of any door and windows that don’t need painting and there you have it - the amount of paint you’ll need. Oh, and it’s always a good idea to order extra paint to deal with future scuff marks or stains. \nCreated a bit of a mess during all your prep work? It happens. Clean it all up to give yourselves ample working space. \nAlthough a paint roller is the best application tool for larger surfaces, invest in a couple of smaller brushes to reach trickier areas, such as around window frames and behind radiators. Read our tips on \nhow to paint a radiator\n.\nDon’t forget to get the trusty masking tape you’ll need to protect your skirting boards and switches from splatters (read our tips on \nhow to use masking tape when decorating\n)\nFollow all the steps above and you’re good to go.\n--\nNow for the actual painting itself… check out our guide on \nhow to paint a wall\n, or if you fancy trying wallpaper, learn \nwhere to start with hanging wallpaper here\n.

Learn & explore Lick's how tos on paint & wallpaper decorating, including how to cut in paint, how to dispose of paint,  how to hang wallpaper and more.

How To - Paint & Wallpaper Decorating Tips From Experts

Simply changing the colour or shade of your walls can go a \nlong\n way in updating the interior appearance and atmosphere of your home. Painting your walls is also a relatively easy way to freshen up a tired-looking decor without spending huge amounts. And no, you don’t necessarily need to choose bold splashes of neon or bright yellows to transform the mood of a room. \nProfessional paint application is just as important as the colour you choose, but luckily it’s not something you always need to turn to an expert for (well, unless you want to that is). Whether you’re a DIY expert or a total newbie, teach yourself how to paint a wall professionally with a little bit of patience, time and experience. Shake off those nerves, gather your tools and give it a whirl using our mini-guide on how to paint a room.\nFirst up, tools\n
Here’s what you’ll need to get started:\nA pot of \ninterior paint\n in a colour that you love\n\nPaintbrush and paint roller\n (& \ncutting in paint brush\n)\nPrimer (unless you're using Lick paint that is. In the main, our paints don't require the use of primer). Learn \nwhen to use primer paint here\n.\nSoap for pre-paint cleaning\nSingle room painting kit which includes a biodegradable eco-friendly \npainting tray\n\nPainters masking tape for painting clean lines (check out \nhow to use masking tape when decorating\n)\n\nDecorators dust sheet\n to protect your floor and furnishings \n\nPaint roller extension pole\n (if you need help reaching those high ceilings)\nHow to paint a wall: basic prep steps\n
The key to a seamless finish lies in the prep. Kick off with the simple preparatory steps below and you’re good to go: \nStart by clearing your working area to give yourself ample painting space. Put away your favourite furniture items and anything you don’t want to get splatters or splodges on.\nPut a protective dust sheet down to save your flooring and any furniture that’s too heavy to move. Newspapers and bedsheets won’t be sufficient here, but either a canvas or a plastic drop sheet should work equally well.\nExamine your wall for any flakey areas or little bumps. Use filler and sealant to fill up any cracks or holes or a scraper to even bumps and flaking paint. Don’t skip this step if you want to achieve a smooth and professional finish.\nNext, get your painting surface ready. Clean your walls thoroughly but gently using a soap and water mixture. Wipe clean and leave to dry.\nOnce the surfaces are dry, use painter’s masking tape (the best \ntape for painting\n) or good old fashioned masking tape to cover any sockets, switches and skirting boards in the area (check out more about the \nbest paint for skirting boards and how to paint skirting boards\n). Line up the edges of the tape with precise care to avoid a lopsided paint job.\nTime to prime. Apply a smooth and even base coat of primer using a roller. Work into smaller crevices using the tip of your paintbrush. Leave to dry for a few hours before starting to paint.\n(Tip: if you happen to be using a Lick paint, then 1) great choice, and 2) you can skip the primer step - our paint has been carefully developed to ensure you only need a few coats, and no primer base either).

How to paint a wall: painting instructions\n
Start by stirring your paint thoroughly for an even texture.\nFirst, use a paintbrush to tackle the edges and corners - this is known as cutting in (learn \nhow to cut in paint\n). Load enough paint to cover the brush halfway up the bristles. Tap your brush on the side of the can and get rid of any excess paint before brushing. Paint brushes are especially useful when painting radiators (read more to learn \nhow to paint a radiator and what paint to use on radiators\n).\nNext, get to work on the main surface areas in the middle using a roller. Dip your roller into the paint can and start to paint your wall in ‘W’ or ‘M’ motions for even distribution.\nLeave the first coat to dry for a couple of hours before you apply another coat. Most walls shouldn’t require more than two coats of paint. Remove the tape from the wall whilst the second coat is still drying.\nLeave to dry for at least 24 hours and remove your dust sheets to reveal your brand new wall.\nEt voilà- you’re done!

What to watch out for\n
As is life; things don’t always go to plan - and the same can be said for when you’re painting a wall. But there are a few things you can do to ensure a stress-free painting experience. \nStash upholstered items far away from your work area to skip the stress of dealing with deeply embedded stains.

Avoid the temptation to skip the priming stage if you want a vivid and consistent finish, especially if you’re painting over a darker colour (unless you’re using Lick products that it - in which, check our our paint information - in the main you won’t need to use primer).\nKeep your work area well-ventilated to minimise drying time.\n--\nRight, onto the next wall…or cupboard! Check out our guide on \nhow to paint furniture\n. Want to know if \nyou can paint over wallpaper\n? Read our guide on \nhow to paint over wallpaper\n.

Tools you'll need\n
Gather these \nwallpaper tools\n before you get started:\nSmaller wallpaper brush for nooks and crannies \nWallpaper paste/ adhesive\nWallpaper (well, that would help) \nMeasuring tool \nSharp scissors\nSoft, clean cloth for smoothing \n\nBest way to approach wallpapering corners \n
First thing's first; are you papering inside corners, or outside corners?\n\nPapering \ninside\n corners? Here’s what you need to know: \nMeasure the length of wallpaper that you’ll need and add an extra couple of centimetres in width before cutting. \nUse your brush to get the wallpaper paste into corners. \nProceed to hang wallpaper with care from top to bottom, making sure to align the pattern to the previous strip. \nGently press the wallpaper strip into the corner using a small brush. \nCarefully press the overlap onto the next wall so it forms a new overlap for the next strip. \nSmooth your strip from the centre using a soft, clean cloth.
\nWhen hanging wallpaper on \noutside\n corners, follow this process: \nMeasure the length and allow for an extra couple of inches (for the overlap) before cutting. \nApply paste using your handy little brush. \nHang the wallpaper using the same process as above, taking care to meet the edges of the last strip you’ve applied. \nWrap the piece around the outside corner.\nCreate a smooth edge by adding your next strip to the other side of the wall.
\nThings to remember\n
Keep smoothing as you go for the best finish. Always smooth out from the centre of the strip to avoid air bubbles.\nSmooth wallpaper surfaces gently. Don’t put too much pressure on it or the paste may squeeze out from the corners.\nDeal with any residue paste before it dries by cleaning it up with a natural sponge as you work.  \nTry not to rush the process. Hanging wallpapers in corners should take a little time for a newbie. Work slowly to avoid making mistakes. \n--\nNow you know \nhow to put up wallpaper\n! Master these steps and you’re one step closer to becoming a professional paperhanger. \n(Yes, that’s a thing.)\n\nRead our \nwallpapering for beginners guide\n and what mistakes to look out for, \nhow to remove wallpaper\n and \nhow to wallpaper a feature wall\n.

As you learn more about \nhow to hang wallpaper\n yourself, you’ll quickly realise that the hardest bit (by far) is getting the corners to look perfect. Sadly, you can’t just push the paper into the corner and expect it to look great. Still, you can learn the techniques and approaches that professionals use for a seamless finish. It’ll be a little tricky at first - but with the right know-how, you’re up for the challenge.\nRead on for our top tips on how to wallpaper corners like a pro.

DIY wall panelling is a cheap and easy way to transform any room in your home by making your walls look a little more interesting. Wall panels can give any room a bit more depth, and they’ve got that perfect blend of traditional and contemporary style. And not only do panels look great and revive your decor, they can also help cover up any uneven surfaces or walls that may be in need of filling.\nDIY wall panelling - can I do it myself? \n\nThere’s a general misconception out there that putting up wood panelling is too hard to bother with. If you’re wondering whether you can fit panelling yourself, the short answer is: yes. If you have basic DIY skills, you’ll find that wall panelling is actually easier to fit than tiles.\n\nOne of the most important (and some would say most challenging) parts of the wall panelling process is getting the measurements just right. Once that’s done and your panels are in place, you’ve just got to follow the standard prep + paint process to get the look you want. \n\nDiscover our easy step-by-step DIY guide on how to do wall panelling below.\nMDF panelling: what you need to know \n\nMedium-density fibreboard (MDF) is the most common type of wood panelling used for interior walls. To get started, you need to first decide the width and thickness of MDF you’re going to use. Now, this is usually based on personal preference. We’d recommend cutting some sample pieces of panelling down and placing them on your wall to select the width and thickness that works best for you. \nHow to do wall panelling \n\nStep 1: Gather your equipment. Here’s what you’ll need: \n\n\nMDF suitable paint\n\nMDF cut to size  \nA trusty tape measure\nPencil\n\nPaint brush \n/ \ncutting-in paint brush\n\n\nPaint roller\n \nSpirit level \nGlue\nSealant\nFillers \nStep 2: Take your measurements \n\nStart by measuring how wide your wall is. This is an important one to get right so grab that tape measure and take your measurements at least 3 times to be super sure. Write down those measurements so you don’t forget!  \nDecide how many panels you’d like on your wall. Sketch out a design of how you’d like your panel wall to look - this can be a huge help to visualise and stay on track as you work your way through all the steps.\nStep 3: Prep \n\nAlthough panelling can hide a multitude of sins on surfaces, there are certain problems you’ll want to fix before going ahead with attaching your panelling: \n\nGet rid of any flaky plaster or peeling paint by sanding down with a gritty sanding block.\nFill in any holes or gaps by carefully pushing filler in with a filling knife.\nOnce you’ve got a smooth surface to work with, it’s time to start attaching the panels onto your wall. \n\nLearn more about \nhow to prep a room for painting\n.\nStep 4: Attach your panels \n\nStart with your base rail. Using strong glue, stick each panel to your wall, making sure to press down for a secure fit. Leave to dry. \nOnce you’ve finished attaching your base rail, start attaching your top rail. You can then move on to your side stiles, which should slot in between your top and bottom rails. Use a spirit level to ensure they’re straight before sticking them down. \nContinue to fit the remaining stiles one at a time and finish off by adding in horizontal rails between them. \nRemember to ensure each panel is securely fixed on before moving to the next. \nSpotted gaps in your panelling? Caulk any such areas and leave them to dry for a smooth finish.\nStep 5: Prime \n\nFor a good pre-paint prime, we recommend preparing the wooden surface first with Zinsser BIN oil-based primer for a paint finish that sticks and lasts. Use a foam \nroller\n to apply your primer coat onto the wooden areas of your panelling. To get into the nooks and crannies, use a smaller brush for application. Leave your primer to dry.\n\nTop tip: if you’re painting MDF that hasn't been painted before, add a mist coat (a blend of 70% water + 30% paint) before applying your choice of \nLick paint colour\n.\nStep 6: Paint\n\nYour panelling is all primed and ready for paint! Opt for a durable and easy clean Matt finish for wood panelling. Cut in using a \ncutting-in paint brush\n (\nlearn how to cut in when painting here\n) and use a roller to paint the rest of the wall and panels. Leave to dry for at least 4 hours before applying your second coat.\n\nWe recommend using Bedec water based vanish after painting with your Matt paint, to protect the panelling.\n\nAfter you've painted and added vanish - sit back and admire your work. Yep, you did that.\n\n(Just a note - if your panelling is in a narrow, high traffic area (such as a hallway) you can opt for an eggshell finish. We are currently out of stock on a few of our eggshells, so check back on the site next month if your colour isn't available)\nLooking for inspiration?\n\nWe've got a few goodies for you direct from our decorating community.\nHallway panelling\n\nHow gorgeous would \nGreen 03\n panelling look in a hallway? Here is some inspiration from the living room of @Bigg_house_project

Bedroom panelling\n\n(Check out Krystal's \n£80 bedroom transformation with Greige 02 wall panelling\n)

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