Ever dealt with the frustrating decor experience of paint bleeding out onto ceilings or other edges, ruining all your careful application efforts? \nSharp lines are one of the key elements of a flawless wall finish, but it’s all too easy for paint to bleed through onto ceilings and adjacent walls. Whether you’re painting your first wall or your twentieth (well done, you pro), learn how to create crisp lines before kicking off your next decorating project. \nFollow the steps below to avoid paint bleeding.\nWhat you’ll need\n
Before you get going, there's a few things you'll need.\nMasking tape (yep, this trusty tool will be your best friend in the process - read more about \npainters masking tape\n)\n\nPaint \n\nBrushes \nA steady hand

(Tip: Though we can't help to steady your hands, both our paints and our painting tools have been developed with ease in mind. So although we're a touch biased, we'd recommend our own products for the best results.)\n

How to do it\n
Step 1: Reach for that masking tape \n Once you’ve suitably \nprepped your walls for painting\n start by applying masking tape over any spots you want to protect, along the edges of the ceiling and where the skirting board meets the wall (discover \nhow to paint skirting boards here\n).\nStep 2: Paint over the edges \nThe secret to crisp, clean lines: paint over the edge of your masking tape with the existing color of the wall (or whatever surface you’re painting). By brushing over the edge of the tape, you’re effectively sealing the paint, and any paint that bleeds through will match the existing color. \nAllow this coat of paint to dry. Read our \nhow to paint a wall\n guide for some top painting tips.\nStep 3: Paint your second coat in the desired new color \n When the first layer of paint is dry, start painting your second (new) color. Using your paintbrush, make sure that the paint overlaps the tape line. \nStep 4: Remove and reveal \nWhile your freshly-painted coat is still wet, it’s time for the big reveal. Carefully remove tape by pulling it towards you at a 90-degree angle. \nIf you’ve followed all the steps above, you should be faced with a sharp, clean line with zero bleed-through. \n--\nUse this technique on edges, corners or where the wall meets the ceiling. Once you’ve mastered how to paint clean lines… you’re pretty far along on your decorating journey. 

Work on pretty much any home design project and you’ll come across this reliable and multi-purpose tool - \npainters masking tape\n. \nIf you want to learn \nhow to paint a wall\n perfectly, masking tape will be your best friend. This trusty tool plays a big part in helping to achieve clean and shape lines when painting and saves skirting boards and adjacent surfaces from paint splatters and splodges. More on that below.

(Check out \nhow to paint skirting boards here\n)\nWhat to use \n
Start by choosing the right tape. There are lots of different masking tape options out there, so make sure you buy tape that’s appropriate for your home renovation needs. You can get painters masking tape that specifically works well with wood, metal or wallpaper. Or, you could just invest in a good old-fashioned multi-purpose masking tape that sticks to all surfaces.

How to use painters masking tape\n
Make use of masking tape to paint like a pro: \nStart by wiping down the areas you want to tape. Dip a sponge into a warm water and mild detergent mixture and use that to get rid of dirt and grime from surfaces before tape application. Leave to dry completely before reaching for that tape.\n(Warning: Skip the above step and your tape will stick to dust particles instead of surfaces. Make sure you check out \nhow to prep walls for painting\n).\nOnce you’ve got a clean and dry surface to work with, start to apply masking tape in foot-long strips. As you’re applying each section, make sure that it overlaps a little with the previous section so paint can’t seep through any cracks.  \nTry to peel off the masking tape as soon as you can. Ensure that you don't leave the masking tape overnight. Peeling off the masking tape when the paint is still wet minimises the chance of it peeling off any existing paint in the process.\n\nWhere to use painters masking tape\n
Affix your tape around areas you want to protect and edges where you want to achieve clean, sharp lines: \nIf you’re painting your walls, tape the edges of the ceiling (right where the ceiling and wall meet), skirting boards, window frames and door frames, light switches and sockets. \nIf you’re painting a ceiling, mask sections of the adjoining walls using masking tape. \nWhen applying tape, apply it as close as possible to the surface you’re going to paint. \nSeal tape to the surface, pressing down to make sure it’s properly stuck on. Firm application will ensure the tape bonds to the surface and prevent paint from bleeding and the tape from peeling. \nRemember to leave enough tape at the end of each strip to overlap the edges of the next section, or you risk exposing small cracks in the middle. \nMasking tape can also help you protect your floors when painting. Cover up your flooring with a drop cloth and use your trusty tape to secure it in place. Not only that, masking tape can also help you create wall art - use it as a stencil and get creative with your shapes!

How to remove painters masking tape\n
Remove masking tape as soon as you’re finished painting. Don’t wait for the paint to dry as you’ll risk peeling it off along with the tape. \nPeel the tape off carefully, pulling it slowly but firmly toward yourself. \nIf any paint has already dried to the tape, score the area using a sharp utility knife. Careful not to cut the wall. \nLeft with sticky paint residue? Don’t fret - remove easily using soapy water.

One of the best things about wallpaper? It doesn’t have to be there forever (unless you want it to, of course). Whether you’re sick of the sight of your current wallpaper or just fancy a bit of a change, it’s easy to remove wallpaper and get something new up \nall\n \nby yourself\n. \nChoose from the three main wallpaper removal methods depending on the type of paper you have up and just how stubbornly attached it is. You could get to work with a trusty stripping knife, or you could simply peel it off (if it’s peel-able, that is). \nOne of the most popular methods? Remove it with a wallpaper steamer. A wallpaper steamer works by using hot water to soften the wallpaper adhesive/ paste between the wallpaper and the wall. It’s quick, it’s effective and, let’s face it, it’s kinda fun. \nIntrigued? Here’s how to remove wallpaper with a steamer:

Don't forget to prep\n
Gather your goods and get your working space ready for steaming.\nBut first: \nTake all your pictures and hangings off the walls. \nProtect your furnishings and knick-knacks by removing them from the room. If any furniture pieces are too heavy to lug around, cover them up with dust sheets and move to the centre of the room. \nSave your flooring (and yourselves from a time-consuming clean) by covering it up with drop sheets. \nSafety first - put on protective gloves and glasses before starting. \nPut your wallpaper steamer on and allow it to heat up for at least 10 minutes. 

(Tip: Rent a steamer instead of going all out and buying one. Unless you’re planning frequent wallpaper removal, that is.)\n

How to use a wallpaper removal steamer: wallpaper steaming process \n
Ready to steam it all off? Here’s how: \nStep 1 \nStarting from the bottom of the wall, hold the steamer’s plate against the wallpaper. Wait for a minute or until you start to see signs of dampness on the paper \nStep 2 \nGently start to scrape the wallpaper away from the wall using a wide scraper. Work with extra care as the plaster surface behind can be fragile and easily damaged. \nStep 3\nStart to move the wallpaper steamer in an upward direction, softening sections and carefully removing them with your scraper as you go. \nStep 4 \nWork on one wallpaper strip at a time, always steaming from bottom to top. Once you’ve removed all the strips and scraps are off, dispose of them in an eco-friendly way. \n(Tip: Consult your wallpaper steamer’s manual for any specific instructions, as they may vary by machine.) \n
What to watch out for\n
Be mindful to not refill your steamer with fresh water when it’s on; it's best to unplug it for a minute or two before topping up the water tank to avoid any mess.\nThen if any drywall comes off along with your wallpaper, stop immediately. This could be a result of the drywall not being properly sealed with paint. Rectify the issue with glue, filler and sealer before steaming on. \n--\nAll off? You now have a blank canvas for your brand-new Lick wallpaper... discover \nwhere to start when hanging wallpaper with our top tips on how to wallpaper a wall\n, and \nhow to prepare walls for wallpaper\n.\n\n\nShop contemporary wallpaper\n

If you’ve got a decor dilemma, we listen. And one setback novice painters can sometimes face is something known as ‘picture framing’. No, we’re not talking Picasso pondering how to present his latest masterpiece. We mean you guys, at home, taking a step back to admire your freshly painted walls and wondering, “why does it look like \nthat\n?”.\nWhat causes picture framing? \nPicture framing occurs at the ‘cutting in’ step of painting your room, when a wall is painted with a roller but is brushed at the edges. Occasionally, the brushed areas appear darker, resembling the frame of a picture. To avoid this, take a look at our advice on \nhow to cut in when painting.\n But more importantly: don’t panic.\n\nPicture framing can be quite common with high quality, high pigment paints (especially darker colors) and is usually down to a difference in paint applied when using a brush versus a roller. It can also be due to the different layering of angles, causing different lighting and miniature shadows (which doesn’t show with lighter colors). Make sure you’re up to scratch on \nhow to use different decorating tools \n(because we all know there’s \nnothing\n worse than a workman blaming their tools).

How to prevent picture framing\n\nLet’s talk about how to avoid it. Our team of expert decorators recommends:\nBrushing the final coat all over the wall to even out the film thickness or cut in smaller areas with the brush.\nMake sure you follow rollering while the brushed areas are still wet to allow the paint to blend. Essentially, maintaining a ‘wet edge’ at all times.\nTaking your roller as close to the cut in corners as you can while painting the wall—always whilst the paint remains wet. \nIf you like, you can change your roller sleeve to a shorter pile.\nHow to fix picture framing\n\nAnd, in the event the worst happens, fear not. It’s totally fixable. If your wall looks like it’s succumbed to the picture framing problem, then perseverance is key. Keep going, trying to match the overlapping sections as closely as possible by applying additional coats of paint to the cut in areas.\n\nAs always, the best route to success is with proper prep, so before you begin, check out our guide on \nhow to prep a room for painting.\n Now all you need is the \npaint\n!

If you want to become a \ntrue\n wallpapering maestro, start by learning how to prepare a room for wallpaper like an expert. Check out our \nwallpapering for beginners guide\n to know what mistakes to look out for and how to fix then. Or master the prep steps and you’re halfway there on your journey to a smooth and professionally papered finish. As tempting as it may be to dive right into the actual application, trust us, the little extra time investment will be so worth it.
\nHow to prepare walls for wallpaper: what you’ll need \n
Gather your wallpaper tools: \nDust sheets \nPaste brush \nSugar soap\nSponge, gloves and a bucket \nStripping knife\nWall filler and filling knife\nSandpaper \nProtective mask and safety glasses\n\nShop our contemporary wallpaper\n

How to prepare walls for wallpaper: how to set up \n
Got everything together? Time to get your working space ready: \nGive yourselves a little more space to work by ridding the room of as many items and as much furniture as you can. If it’s too heavy (or you just don’t have anywhere else to move it), scoot it over to the middle of the room and cover with dust sheets. \nMeasure the room and work out how much wallpaper you’ll actually need. Get a little extra (we’d recommend 10% extra) to allow for wastage. \nTime to strip off any old wallpaper and paint. For wallpaper, we’d recommend using a good old stripping knife to start with. Carefully strip off sections of wallpaper, taking care not to damage the wall behind. If you’re struggling, soften up old wallpaper with a sponge dipped in hot water for easier removal. If you’re \nreally\n struggling, invest in (or borrow) a steam wallpaper stripper and get the job done a lot more quickly (learn \nhow remove wallpaper with a steamer and how to use a wallpaper removal steamer here\n). \nWant to get rid of old, peeling paint? Get a smooth finish by sanding away any flakes or patches with a fine piece of sandpaper. \nOnce your surfaces are free of wallpaper and paint, take a closer look for any cracks in the walls. Fill in any holes or gaps with filler for an even surface. Wait for the filler to dry before sanding smooth with a piece of fine sandpaper. \nPut on a pair of rubber gloves and prepare to scrub. Clean all surfaces that are to be papered with a sugar soap and water solution. Wipe away soap traces with a damp and clean sponge and leave to dry overnight. \nWhat to consider when preparing walls for wallpaper\n
It’s worth mentioning: \nStripping your walls is messy business. Make sure your room is well-ventilated and use a protective mask if you have any suspicions about the presence of lead under the surface.\nWe know - prep work can result in quite a bit of a mess. Clear everything up before you start hanging wallpaper for a clean working space (read more on \nwhere to start with wallpapering here\n). \n--\nThere you have it - a fully prepped room that’s ready for your handywork. Take a deep breath and prepare to paper... it's time to learn \nhow to put up wallpaper and how to wallpaper a feature wall\n. Are you using \nself-adhesive wallpaper\n? Check out our t\nips on how to apply self-adhesive wallpaper\n to a wall and \neverything you need to know about self-adhesive\n.\n\n--\nAnd if you are working the other way around and want to know if \nyou can paint over wallpaper\n, then read our guide on \nhow to paint over wallpaper\n.

As they say: fail to prepare and you prepare to fail. When it comes to painting walls, this couldn’t be any truer. Learn how to prep a room for painting and you’re guaranteed a much smoother finish. Investing a little more time and care at the start is more than worth it.\nGet one step closer in your quest to paint like a pro by getting to grips with how to prepare a room for painting. Read on for our guide on how to do it and what to watch out for.

How to prep walls for painting: what you'll need\n
First, get your tools together. You’ll need: \nSoap \nSponge, gloves and a bucket \nStripping knife \nFiller and filling knife\nProtective sheets \nSandpaper\nHow to set up\n
Got everything you need? Get started with the following steps: \nRemove as much of your furniture as you can. If it’s too heavy to lug too far, move it to the centre of the room and cover it up with protective sheets. \nStart by inspecting your walls carefully. Spot any holes and cracks? Clean any gaps with soap water (and rinse) before filling in carefully. Push filler in carefully using your filling knife until you’re satisfied with the evenness. Leave to dry before smoothing down with a sandpaper\nTackle any flaky plaster or peeling paint by sanding with a fine sandpaper. For the most beautiful finish, you want your paint surface to be as smooth and even as possible. \nMake sure your walls are clean and dry before paint application. Pop your gloves on and clean surfaces using soap and water. Give the walls a final wipe down with a damp sponge to get rid of any traces of soap and leave to dry (thoroughly). \nNewly plastered surface\nDealing with a freshly plastered wall? Apply a primer for the most vivid result. Make sure the primer is completely dry before applying any paint.\n\nPreviously wallpapered surface\nWorking on a previously wallpapered surface? Peel-able wallpaper is easy to get rid off (the hint is in the name), but wallpaper hung with paste can be slightly trickier to remove. Take it off carefully using a stripping knife, taking extra care not to damage the plaster behind.\nIf a few scraps of wallpaper are holding on for dear life, soak with a sponge and hot water to soften before stripping. Finish off by sanding lightly with a fresh piece of sandpaper.\n\nBrick wall surface\nYou can use either our Interior or Exterior paint for a brick surface. We suggest our Interior paint, as it has a faster drying time.\nYou'll need to apply a mist coat by thinning some of the paint with 70% water (i.e. 7 part water for every 3 parts paint).\nDo one coat in the mist coat and allow it to dry before painting two coats with the rest of the undiluted paint.\nThis is because masonry can be porous and therefore will soak up paint on the first application and could lead to an uneven finish and peeling if not sealed. If you would prefer to use a primer paint rather than a mist coat, we recommend using Zinsser 1-2-3 Bulls Eye Primer Sealer as a high-quality primer.\n\nTiled surface\nWhilst our paint is durable and suitable for multi-surface use, we wouldn't recommend using it for glazed tiles as they can be tricky for even multi-surface paint to adhere to. This can result in an uneven and patchy finish if the paint doesn't apply properly. Also, for floor tiles, due to the high tread they encounter, you may find the paint wears quickly.\nFor these reasons, we suggest using a specialist tile paint for your tiles!

What next?\n
Other than mentally preparing yourself for the task ahead, there's a few other things to bear in mind.\nFigure out how much paint you’ll need to buy. Start by measuring the length and height of each wall. Next, multiply both numbers to get the square footage. Take away the square footage of any door and windows that don’t need painting and there you have it - the amount of paint you’ll need. Oh, and it’s always a good idea to order extra paint to deal with future scuff marks or stains. \nCreated a bit of a mess during all your prep work? It happens. Clean it all up to give yourselves ample working space. \nAlthough a paint roller is the best application tool for larger surfaces, invest in a couple of smaller brushes to reach trickier areas, such as around window frames and behind radiators. Read our tips on \nhow to paint a radiator\n.\nDon’t forget to get the trusty masking tape you’ll need to protect your skirting boards and switches from splatters (read our tips on \nhow to use masking tape when decorating\n)\nFollow all the steps above and you’re good to go.\n--\nNow for the actual painting itself… check out our guide on \nhow to paint a wall\n, or if you fancy trying wallpaper, learn \nwhere to start with hanging wallpaper here\n.

Want to make those daily climbs a little more aesthetically pleasing? Looking for \nideas for how to update your hallway decor\n with a simple DIY job?\n\nIt’s easily done with a tin of paint. \n\nAlthough it’s not \nquite\n as straightforward as painting walls (thanks to all those little nooks and crannies), painting stairs isn’t as tough as you may think. From prep and prime to paint and dry, it takes just a couple of days to complete the process. And you’re left with a much more stylish staircase to strut up and down every day, as well as a better looking hallway space.\nPainting wooden stairs? We’ve got you covered.\n\nWorking with wooden stairs? First, make sure you prep and protect the surface. We’d recommend using \nBedec water based varnish\n for an extra layer of protection. This also reduces the impact of wear from high tread and the high amount of handling that your staircase gets on a daily basis. \n\nWhen deciding which staircase paint to use, either a \nmatt\n or \neggshell\n finish would work equally well. Both fare hard-wearing and easy clean finishes that would stand the test of time in such an oft-used area. For painting wooden stairs, \neggshell paint\n may work slightly better for a more durable finish. \n\nHow to prep and paint your staircase\n\nOnce you’re equipped with a trusty tin of paint, it’s time to take a closer look at what you’re working with. \n\nAs Sam, our resident Color Specialist, says: \n\n“When it comes to painting your stairs, it will be your stairs themselves that determine their destiny. They will reveal if they are up for the job. If you're lucky and they are in good condition, your prep work will be one of ease. Your staircase can then be a color fountain up to your first floor and a creative pleasure to paint.”\nWe love the sound of that. Here are the steps to follow:\n\n\nStep 1: Clean the surface \n\nBefore we get to the creative stair painting part, it’s time to get stuck in with a good old fashioned scrub. Use soapy water to clean your stairs, making sure you rinse all the soap off after. \n\nStep 2: Leave to dry \n\nStep back with a cuppa and wait for the stairs to dry so you have a clean working surface. Make sure your stairs are bone dry before moving on to the next step. \n\nStep 3: Sand and clear dust \n\nUsing a sanding block, sand your stairs where needed to create a smooth surface for your paint to stick. This will also result in a more even finish.\n\nOnce done, make sure your stairs are clean and dust-free so they’re nice and smooth for priming and painting. \n\nStep 4: Prime \n\nStart by applying a primer first. This step will help make your staircase paint last longer and provides a solid base for the paint to stick to. \n\nApply your primer coat and leave to dry before painting. Using Lick paint? You can skip this step as our paint is already formulated with primer.\n\nIf you’re painting wooden stairs that haven’t been painted before, the surface can be quite porous, so we’d recommend applying a mist coat and letting that dry before you paint as normal. What's a mist coat? It's a diluted mixture of paint and water. To make it, just add water to your paint in a 70:30 paint to water ratio.\n\nStep 5: Paint\n\nTime for the fun part. Remember to start your paint process early on in the day so you have enough drying time before you need to make use of the stairs. Then, starting from the top and working your way down to the bottom, use a brush to cut in the corners with your paint before painting the surfaces. We’d recommend using a roller to paint the main stair surfaces. \nDiscover our paint supplies here\n.\n\nLeave to dry for at least 6 hours and stick to a socks only rule for the next 72 hours to give the paint time to settle into the wood.\n\nStep 6: Finish off with varnish for extra protection \n\nWant to stomp up and down with worrying about wearing your paint out? Add a varnish at the end to give your paint job that extra layer of protection. Leave at least 72 hours between painting and varnishing for the best results.\nLooking for ideas for painting your stairs?\n\nSo now you know the \nhow. \nBut your staircase isn’t just for climbing - it can also serve as a design statement in your home.\n\nNeed a creative vision to get you started? Start by checking out this stellar \nstaircase makeover\n, or try out some of Sam's top staircase paint ideas below:\nDon’t be afraid to go bold in your choice of staircase color\nHallways can be a tricky space to decorate, but a ‘statement’ staircase is a simple way to add impact here. Dare to go bold and choose a bright or contrasting color on your staircase. Sam's advice here: \n“\nI love a color block staircase, set against a neutral backdrop, highlighting and leading your eyes upwards to explore your other rooms.”

Try a two-tone paint effect\nWant to make a real impact with your stairs? Choose to paint the treads one color and risers another color for a cool two-tone effect. e.g. Black & White/Grey & White. Or you could paint the treads and risers one color and paint the bannister with a contrasting color.

“Your staircase can be a color fountain up to your first floor and a creative pleasure to paint.”

Play around with different effects on your staircase \nAlthough you may think of your stairs as a highly functional space, don’t be afraid to get creative! For instance, Sam suggests creating the illusion of a stair runner with paint as a, “Simple and affordable way to make a feature and statement”.

Whether you decide to give your staircase a full-blown makeover or just a quick lick of paint, we’d love to see it! Share your spruced upstairs with us on Instagram @lick.

When it comes to painting and decorating your home, it’s easy for ceilings to get overlooked. Most people - professionals and amateurs alike - tend to put off this slightly awkward and messy job. But, you’d be surprised at just how much a sloppy ceiling paint job can affect the look and feel of a room. Bite the bullet and give your ceilings a little spruce with a fresh paint job. Don’t you want to admire your home from \nall\n angles? \nThanks to leaky roofs, smoke and spills, it’s also easy for neglected ceilings to get covered in unsightly stains. Learn how to paint a ceiling like a professional and you won’t need to deal with the ugly sight of stains, fading paint or cracked corners again.\n\nThinking of painting your bathroom? Make sure you check out our top tips for choosing \nthe best paint for a steamy bathroom ceiling\n.\nGather your tools and paint supplies\nHere’s what you’ll need to get started to paint a ceiling: \n\nPaint Supplies\n \nBiodegradable dust sheet\n\nMasking tape (learn how to use \npainters masking tape here\n)\nBrush (or\n cutting in paint brush\n)\n\nPaint tray\n\n9” Roller with Roller Sleeve\n\nPaint roller extension pole\n\nPaint for the ceiling\nPrep Supplies\nSandpaper block\nFiller\nFilling knife \n\nDust sheet\n\nLadder (for cutting in)\n\nPro Tip: Use safety glasses so you don’t get paint speckles in your eyes

Protect your furniture\n\nGathered your gear? Time for prep:  \nStart by moving your furniture to another room. If you can’t find any other space for it (or it’s on the heavier side) move it to a corner of the room. Drape lots of \nprotective dust sheets\n over it to save yourselves the hassle of dealing with nightmarish upholstery stains after. \n99% of the time it's best to use a matt paint instead of a gloss paint, because it hides imperfections, decreases light glare and doesn’t show the flashing of roller glide marks. Situations, like decorating a kitchen or bathroom, might call for a gloss paint ceiling. \nBest way to paint a ceiling: prep your ceiling surface properly\nPrep is just as important to ceilings as it is for walls (you can read \nhow to prep walls for painting here\n).\nInspect your ceiling for bumps and gaps. Sand down any bumps with sanding paper and fill in any holes or large cracks with flexi filler. This is also a good time to deal with any ceiling-related issues that you’ve been neglecting. Discover \nLick’s Wall Repair Kit\n, a trusty 3-piece kit to help you achieve a professional finish.\nGet rid of any grease and dust by cleaning the surface with warm water.\n““In most instances, a dust rag should suffice and soap plus water is for heavier grime””\nApply masking tape to protect key areas\n\nIf you are not planning on painting the walls too, then first you need to apply \nmasking tape\n around the edges in order to protect your trim and/or walls. Read our \nfull guide on how to apply masking tape\n.\nStarting at the corner of a room, apply your tape by pressing down on the edges firmly to ensure a tight seal so the paint doesn’t bleed through.\nTo paint around a ceiling fixture, make sure you cover up light fixtures and secure painter's tape around the edge of the fixture's base.\n\nStart by painting the ceiling edges\nStep on to your ladder and start with the corners first. Start to brush paint along the edge of the ceiling, tackling one section at a time. \nYou will want to use \nour painting tray\n, which is smaller and easier to manage when up a ladder. \nUsing a 1” angled brush start to brush paint along the edge of the ceiling to cut in by about 3 to 4 inches around the perimeter of the ceiling (learn \nhow to cut in paint\n).\n\nNote: When painting an entire room, our decorators always suggest you paint the ceiling first, and allow 24 hours for the surface to dry before painting your walls. \nLearn how to paint a wall here\n.

Shop our \nBlue 111 cobalt blue paint\n.\n\nTime to roll out\n\nBy using a roller instead of a brush you can roll your ceiling fast. Our \n9” roller with extension pole\n is the speediest way to get the job done.\nStart to roll, working in small sections whilst your cut-in section is still wet. \nAlways roll your roller in the same direction, following the same lines to decrease visible lap marks on the ceiling. Not sure which way you should roll? Consider where the light is coming into the room and where will the majority of visitors be entering the room. Ideally, you want people to look across the roller line marks rather than down them.\nTry not to take too long between sections, otherwise the paint will dry along the edges and you’ll see lap marks. You can prevent roller marks by starting each section with an overlap onto the wet edges of the section before.\nSkip the ladder for this step and use an \nextension pole\n to move around the room faster.\nReroll as you go for optimum coverage. We’d recommend rerolling every section at a right angle to the first roller direction. \n99% of the time it’s best to use a matt paint instead of a gloss paint because it hides imperfections, decreases light glare and doesnt show the flashing of roller glide marks. Situations, like decorating a kitchen or bathroom, might call for a gloss paint ceiling. \n\nTip: Planning to paint the walls too? Lap the paint onto the walls to avoid sloppy edges on the ceiling. Read \nour guide on how to prep walls for painting\n and \nhow to paint a wall\n.

Things to watch out for \nMake your first ceiling paint experience a success with our top tips below: \nWe wouldn’t recommend painting a ceiling in your favourite gear. Expect for things to get a little messy and wear safety glasses to avoid specks of paint getting into your eyes. \nProtect your hair with a baseball cap from the inevitable drips. \nStick with a roller for ceiling paint application. You’ll get the best coverage and much less splatter than with a paint sprayer. \nUse a sturdy stepladder to avoid any accidents. No stepping onto wobbly dining room chairs!\n\nGive yourself a little pat on the back. But not for too long - it’s now time to tackle the walls... 

Liven up the exterior of your home with a fresh lick of window frame paint. \nWindow frames are usually made of wood so you’ve got a good base to play with, although the task does require a fair bit of attention to detail. You may have already learnt \nhow to prep walls for painting\n and \nhow to paint a wall\n. While window frame painting can be slightly tougher than painting walls and ceilings, it’s definitely possible for a DIY painter to nail the job with a little bit of know-how. \nStart by checking out the window frame painting process that’ll make your windows pop: \nPainting window frames: what you’ll need \n
First thing's first - tools.\n\nProtective dust sheet\n\nMasking tape (learn how to use \npainters masking tape here\n)\nPrimer \nFiller \nSandpaper\nLick paint \nPaintbrush - either an angled brush or a sash brush should do the trick\nScraper\n

How to prep and prime your window\n
Invest in a bit of time into prep and you’re guaranteed a better finish: \nStart by putting a canvas sheet down in front of your window. This should catch any scraps of paint that fall to the ground and save you precious time in the post-paint cleanup stage. \nScrape off any old paint using your trusty scraper. It’s not a difficult tool to use; just dig the edge into the paint and push down into the frame to scrape. Careful not to scratch the pane itself. Oh and don’t worry if your surface isn’t free from all traces of paint - as long as you get the majority of it. \nInspect for any holes or cracks. Fill in any gaps you spot so you have a flat and smooth surface to paint over. \nSand down the window frame and any gritty patches with sandpaper, using long and sweeping strokes. This helps create a smooth surface to work on and can also help your paint stick better. Warning: don’t skip this step or you’ll end up with a bumpy finish. \nAffix some masking take around the edges of the frame to create a clear divide between your coat of paint and the wall. Cover up any hinges with tape to save them from paint splatters. \nTime to prime what you’ve just scraped and sanded. Using a small angled paintbrush, apply the primer in long, sweeping strokes. An angled brush gives you better access to all the little nooks and crannies and ensures that all areas properly primed. Leave the primer to dry for a few hours. \n(Tip: After the scraping and sanding step, make sure you clean thoroughly to get rid of any debris. Otherwise, you’ll get bits of sawdust and paint particles interfering with your paint.)\nPainting window frames: how to do it\n
Time to get on to the application… \nStart by loading a clean angled brush with paint. Apply in long strokes to achieve a well-blended and even finish.  \nWorking on casement windows? Start with the frame and finish with the sill. If you’re painting sash windows, start by painting the bottom frame and wait for it to dry. Once dry, move the second frame down and repeat the process. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying a second coat. \nRemove the masking tape gently while the paint is still damp. Take extra care not to damage the freshly painted surface. \nLeave your newly spruced up window frame to dry overnight. \n--\nYour work here is done. Take a step back to admire your clean-as-a-whistle handywork.

Lick Green 04 closets by @Colourful_animal_disco_home\n\nWhile painting your walls is a great way to add impact to your decor, painting other interior surfaces is the way to go if you want to create a truly unique color scheme. When it comes to bedroom decor, painting your closet is an easy way to give your snoozing space a fresh new look.\n\nDiscover how to prep and paint your closets, by following our easy step-by-step guide.\nHow to prep and paint laminate/melamine/MDF closets \nPainting laminate, melamine or MDF closets? Then follow the steps below: \n\nStep 1: Clean \n\nKick off with a good old scrub so you have a clean surface to paint on. Using water and a non-abrasive cloth, get rid of any grease and dust so your paint can really stick to that surface. After cleaning, leave to dry thoroughly before moving on to the next step. \n\nNote, we’d recommend removing the closet doors before painting for the best results. If you try to paint everything in its place, you may find that the paint starts to crack around the hinges.\nStep 2: Sand and clear dust\n\nSmooth your closet surfaces with sandpaper or a sanding block so your paint sticks better. Steer clear of overly gritty sandpaper though; 120 grit should provide enough of a buff. \n\nOnce sanded down you’ll probably be faced with quite a bit of dust, which isn’t ideal for a smooth paint job. Get rid of all those dust particles and you’re guaranteed a much more flawless finish.\nStep 3: Prime \n\nWorking with untreated wood? Apply a coat of primer to your closet and leave to dry completely before painting. \n\nFor these surfaces, we’ d recommend using Zinsser BIN oil-based primer for the most durable finish.\nStep 4: Paint \n\nDesigned for durability and suitable for multi-surface use, Lick \nMDF suitable paint\n offers the perfect finish on laminate, melamine and MDF/wood. Start with the frames and paint in even strokes, working your way from the inside out. \n\nFor the closet doors and drawer fronts, we’d recommend painting their backs first and leaving to dry thoroughly before painting the front.\nStep 5: Leave to dry \n\nPainting closet can be a bit of a time investment, primarily due to the drying time involved. The good news is that this part involves you doing no work whatsoever, you just need to find another spot to stash your clothes. Leave your freshly painted wardrobes to dry for around a week before putting them back together.\nStep 6: Varnish (optional) \n\nAlthough this step isn’t essential, varnishing your closet after the paint dries is a great way to give them a glossier finish. It’s not for the impatient though, as you’d then need to wait for the varnish to fully dry before you get your closet back together.

How to paint unpainted wood/raw MDF closet\n\nRaw, untreated MDF or wood that has never been painted can be more absorbent/porous. If your closet is made of these materials, apply a mist coat after you prime and let it dry before you start painting. A mist coat is simply a mixture of 70% paint and 30% water, and this additional step will give you a better finish on unpainted wood/raw MDF surfaces.

Common mistakes when painting closet doors\n\nTake care to avoid some of these commonly made closet painting mistakes: \nUsing sugar soap when cleaning. \nStay away from sugar soap when cleaning your closet as prep. All you need is water and a non-abrasive cloth. \nNot sanding.\n Want a smooth finish that lasts and lasts? Don’t skip the sanding step! \nNot giving the paint enough time to dry. \nAlthough it sounds like a long time, you’ll be glad you were patient enough to leave your closet doors to dry thoroughly.We’d recommend leaving them to dry for a week after painting.\nLooking for more bedroom decor inspo? Check out this \nIKEA Malm hack to upcycle your bedside table\n and discover the \nbest paint colors for a small bedroom\n.

Learn & explore Lick's how tos on paint & wallpaper decorating, including how to cut in paint, how to dispose of paint,  how to hang wallpaper and more.

How To - Paint & Wallpaper Decorating Tips From Experts

Simply changing the color or shade of your walls can go a \nlong\n way in updating the interior appearance and atmosphere of your home. Painting your walls is also a relatively easy way to freshen up a tired-looking decor without spending huge amounts. And no, you don’t necessarily need to choose bold splashes of neon or bright yellows to transform the mood of a room. \nProfessional paint application is just as important as the color you choose, but luckily it’s not something you always need to turn to an expert for (well, unless you want to that is). Whether you’re a DIY expert or a total newbie, teach yourself how to paint a wall professionally with a little bit of patience, time and experience. Shake off those nerves, gather your tools and give it a whirl using our mini-guide on how to paint a room.\nFirst up, tools\n
Here’s what you’ll need to get started:\nA pot of \ninterior paint\n in a color that you love\n\nPaintbrush and paint roller\n (& \ncutting in paint brush\n)\nPrimer (unless you're using Lick paint that is. In the main, our paints don't require the use of primer). Learn \nwhen to use primer paint here\n.\nSoap for pre-paint cleaning\nSingle room painting kit which includes a biodegradable eco-friendly \npainting tray\n\nPainters masking tape for painting clean lines (check out \nhow to use masking tape when decorating\n)\n\nDecorators dust sheet\n to protect your floor and furnishings \n\nPaint roller extension pole\n (if you need help reaching those high ceilings)\nHow to paint a wall: basic prep steps\n
The key to a seamless finish lies in the prep. Kick off with the simple preparatory steps below and you’re good to go: \nStart by clearing your working area to give yourself ample painting space. Put away your favourite furniture items and anything you don’t want to get splatters or splodges on.\nPut a protective dust sheet down to save your flooring and any furniture that’s too heavy to move. Newspapers and bedsheets won’t be sufficient here, but either a canvas or a plastic drop sheet should work equally well.\nExamine your wall for any flakey areas or little bumps. Use filler and sealant to fill up any cracks or holes or a scraper to even bumps and flaking paint. Don’t skip this step if you want to achieve a smooth and professional finish.\nNext, get your painting surface ready. Clean your walls thoroughly but gently using a soap and water mixture. Wipe clean and leave to dry.\nOnce the surfaces are dry, use painter’s masking tape (the best \ntape for painting\n) or good old fashioned masking tape to cover any sockets, switches and skirting boards in the area (check out more about the \nbest paint for skirting boards and how to paint skirting boards\n). Line up the edges of the tape with precise care to avoid a lopsided paint job.\nTime to prime. Apply a smooth and even base coat of primer using a roller. Work into smaller crevices using the tip of your paintbrush. Leave to dry for a few hours before starting to paint.\n(Tip: if you happen to be using a Lick paint, then 1) great choice, and 2) you can skip the primer step - our paint has been carefully developed to ensure you only need a few coats, and no primer base either).

How to paint a wall: painting instructions\n
Start by stirring your paint thoroughly for an even texture.\nFirst, use a paintbrush to tackle the edges and corners - this is known as cutting in (learn \nhow to cut in paint\n). Load enough paint to cover the brush halfway up the bristles. Tap your brush on the side of the can and get rid of any excess paint before brushing. Paint brushes are especially useful when painting radiators (read more to learn \nhow to paint a radiator and what paint to use on radiators\n).\nNext, get to work on the main surface areas in the middle using a roller. Dip your roller into the paint can and start to paint your wall in ‘W’ or ‘M’ motions for even distribution.\nLeave the first coat to dry for a couple of hours before you apply another coat. Most walls shouldn’t require more than two coats of paint. Remove the tape from the wall whilst the second coat is still drying.\nLeave to dry for at least 24 hours and remove your dust sheets to reveal your brand new wall.\nEt voilà- you’re done!

What to watch out for\n
As is life; things don’t always go to plan - and the same can be said for when you’re painting a wall. But there are a few things you can do to ensure a stress-free painting experience. \nStash upholstered items far away from your work area to skip the stress of dealing with deeply embedded stains.

Avoid the temptation to skip the priming stage if you want a vivid and consistent finish, especially if you’re painting over a darker color (unless you’re using Lick products that it - in which, check our our paint information - in the main you won’t need to use primer).\nKeep your work area well-ventilated to minimise drying time.\n--\nRight, onto the next wall…or cupboard! Check out our guide on \nhow to paint furniture\n. Want to know if \nyou can paint over wallpaper\n? Read our guide on \nhow to paint over wallpaper\n.

Tools you'll need\n
Gather these \nwallpaper tools\n before you get started:\nSmaller wallpaper brush for nooks and crannies \nWallpaper paste/ adhesive\nWallpaper (well, that would help) \nMeasuring tool \nSharp scissors\nSoft, clean cloth for smoothing \n\nBest way to approach wallpapering corners \n
First thing's first; are you papering inside corners, or outside corners?\n\nPapering \ninside\n corners? Here’s what you need to know: \nMeasure the length of wallpaper that you’ll need and add an extra couple of centimetres in width before cutting. \nUse your brush to get the wallpaper paste into corners. \nProceed to hang wallpaper with care from top to bottom, making sure to align the pattern to the previous strip. \nGently press the wallpaper strip into the corner using a small brush. \nCarefully press the overlap onto the next wall so it forms a new overlap for the next strip. \nSmooth your strip from the centre using a soft, clean cloth.
\nWhen hanging wallpaper on \noutside\n corners, follow this process: \nMeasure the length and allow for an extra couple of inches (for the overlap) before cutting. \nApply paste using your handy little brush. \nHang the wallpaper using the same process as above, taking care to meet the edges of the last strip you’ve applied. \nWrap the piece around the outside corner.\nCreate a smooth edge by adding your next strip to the other side of the wall.
\nThings to remember\n
Keep smoothing as you go for the best finish. Always smooth out from the centre of the strip to avoid air bubbles.\nSmooth wallpaper surfaces gently. Don’t put too much pressure on it or the paste may squeeze out from the corners.\nDeal with any residue paste before it dries by cleaning it up with a natural sponge as you work.  \nTry not to rush the process. Hanging wallpapers in corners should take a little time for a newbie. Work slowly to avoid making mistakes. \n--\nNow you know \nhow to put up wallpaper\n! Master these steps and you’re one step closer to becoming a professional paperhanger. \n(Yes, that’s a thing.)\n\nRead our \nwallpapering for beginners guide\n and what mistakes to look out for, \nhow to remove wallpaper\n and \nhow to wallpaper a feature wall\n.

As you learn more about \nhow to hang wallpaper\n yourself, you’ll quickly realize that the hardest bit (by far) is getting the corners to look perfect. Sadly, you can’t just push the paper into the corner and expect it to look great. Still, you can learn the techniques and approaches that professionals use for a seamless finish. It’ll be a little tricky at first - but with the right know-how, you’re up for the challenge.\nRead on for our top tips on how to wallpaper corners like a pro.

DIY wall panelling is a cheap and easy way to transform any room in your home by making your walls look a little more interesting. Wall panels can give any room a bit more depth, and they’ve got that perfect blend of traditional and contemporary style. And not only do panels look great and revive your decor, they can also help cover up any uneven surfaces or walls that may be in need of filling.\nDIY wall panelling - can I do it myself? \n\nThere’s a general misconception out there that putting up wood panelling is too hard to bother with. If you’re wondering whether you can fit panelling yourself, the short answer is: yes. If you have basic DIY skills, you’ll find that wall panelling is actually easier to fit than tiles.\n\nOne of the most important (and some would say most challenging) parts of the wall panelling process is getting the measurements just right. Once that’s done and your panels are in place, you’ve just got to follow the standard prep + paint process to get the look you want. \n\nDiscover our easy step-by-step DIY guide on how to do wall panelling below.\nMDF panelling: what you need to know \n\nMedium-density fibreboard (MDF) is the most common type of wood panelling used for interior walls. To get started, you need to first decide the width and thickness of MDF you’re going to use. Now, this is usually based on personal preference. We’d recommend cutting some sample pieces of panelling down and placing them on your wall to select the width and thickness that works best for you. \nHow to do wall panelling \n\nStep 1: Gather your equipment. Here’s what you’ll need: \n\n\nMDF suitable paint\n\nMDF cut to size  \nA trusty tape measure\nPencil\n\nPaint brush \n/ \ncutting-in paint brush\n\n\nPaint roller\n \nSpirit level \nGlue\nSealant\nFillers \nStep 2: Take your measurements \n\nStart by measuring how wide your wall is. This is an important one to get right so grab that tape measure and take your measurements at least 3 times to be super sure. Write down those measurements so you don’t forget!  \nDecide how many panels you’d like on your wall. Sketch out a design of how you’d like your panel wall to look - this can be a huge help to visualise and stay on track as you work your way through all the steps.\nStep 3: Prep \n\nAlthough panelling can hide a multitude of sins on surfaces, there are certain problems you’ll want to fix before going ahead with attaching your panelling: \n\nGet rid of any flaky plaster or peeling paint by sanding down with a gritty sanding block.\nFill in any holes or gaps by carefully pushing filler in with a filling knife.\nOnce you’ve got a smooth surface to work with, it’s time to start attaching the panels onto your wall. \n\nLearn more about \nhow to prep a room for painting\n.\nStep 4: Attach your panels \n\nStart with your base rail. Using strong glue, stick each panel to your wall, making sure to press down for a secure fit. Leave to dry. \nOnce you’ve finished attaching your base rail, start attaching your top rail. You can then move on to your side stiles, which should slot in between your top and bottom rails. Use a spirit level to ensure they’re straight before sticking them down. \nContinue to fit the remaining stiles one at a time and finish off by adding in horizontal rails between them. \nRemember to ensure each panel is securely fixed on before moving to the next. \nSpotted gaps in your panelling? Caulk any such areas and leave them to dry for a smooth finish.\nStep 5: Prime \n\nFor a good pre-paint prime, we recommend preparing the wooden surface first with Zinsser BIN oil-based primer for a paint finish that sticks and lasts. Use a foam \nroller\n to apply your primer coat onto the wooden areas of your panelling. To get into the nooks and crannies, use a smaller brush for application. Leave your primer to dry.\n\nTop tip: if you’re painting MDF that hasn't been painted before, add a mist coat (a blend of 70% water + 30% paint) before applying your choice of \nLick paint color\n.\nStep 6: Paint\n\nYour panelling is all primed and ready for paint! Opt for a durable and easy clean Matt finish for wood panelling. Cut in using a \ncutting-in paint brush\n (\nlearn how to cut in when painting here\n) and use a roller to paint the rest of the wall and panels. Leave to dry for at least 4 hours before applying your second coat.\n\nWe recommend using Bedec water based vanish after painting with your Matt paint, to protect the panelling.\n\nAfter you've painted and added vanish - sit back and admire your work. Yep, you did that.\n\n(Just a note - if your panelling is in a narrow, high traffic area (such as a hallway) you can opt for an eggshell finish. We are currently out of stock on a few of our eggshells, so check back on the site next month if your color isn't available)\nLooking for inspiration?\n\nWe've got a few goodies for you direct from our decorating community.\nHallway panelling\n\nHow gorgeous would \nGreen 03\n panelling look in a hallway? Here is some inspiration from the living room of @Bigg_house_project

Bedroom panelling\n\n(Check out Krystal's \n£80 bedroom transformation with Greige 02 wall panelling\n)

How to

How to paint clean lines when decorating

How to use masking tape when decorating

How to remove wallpaper with a steamer

How to prevent picture framing on a painted wall

How to prep a room for wallpapering

How to prep a room for painting

How to paint your staircase

How to paint a ceiling

How to paint window frames

How to paint closets